Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Lush botrytis nose, peaches and honey, stewed fruits. Rich and suave, but a touch fluid, too. At first, this seemed like a slight lack of concentration, but it’s also a character that gives the wine a graceful and sensuous appeal. Less evolved than the nose, with fine bracing acidity, and a welcome poise on the finish, which may be a touch candied but isn’t cloying. Quite good length. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Corky—only slightly, but it’s there. Second bottle better, but it hasn’t been open long. Otherwise, a powerful, concentrated wine, with backbone and a long life. Harmonious, tight, vigorous; still youthful, with tremendous drive. The mark assumes a good bottle. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Mature orange-gold; slightly grubby nose (faint cork on first bottle?). Second bottle cleaner; moderately concentrated wine, with a lively acidity; medium-sweet, a bit foursquare, fairly straightforward, medium length. Ready and as good as it is ever likely to be. 14