Stephen Brook: Discreet peachy nose, quite oaky. Soft, rounded, fleshy, quite concentrated, but balanced by decent acidity. There’s a pungency on the mid-palate that is welcome, yet the overall impression is underwhelming. It’s perfectly sound, with no false notes, but it lacks some excitement and flair, and the finish has a hint of boiled sweets. 14.5

Margaret Rand: Bright, brisk, slight marmalade notes, light and fresh. Very appealing—a great morning wine. Very confident, nice length, very attractive. Not huge complexity, but lovely freshness. 15

Michael Schuster: Pale mid-gold; ripe, honeyed nose, with a touch of oak to smell; rich, elegantly balanced, with adequate acidity; intensely sweet, long, refined, subtle palate, with an attractive raciness to it and fine aromatic length. Stylish wine—delicious now, with decades to go. 17