Andrew Jefford: Full gold in color. Very attractive, enticing scents, freighted with sweetness, yet with lots of nutty richness underneath. Ripe, rich, engaging—there’s plenty of mallowy, richly developed fruit, too. An aromatic profile of huge charm and seduction. On the palate, this is ripe at first, with all of those seductive aromatic notes swarming over the tongue; after a while, though, it grows a little drier and more statuesque, and the depth and vinosity become apparent. A very active, quite forceful wine in which craft plays a major role; yet this is also structured and deep, and I get the sense that there is some old-vine depth here, too. A leading contender. It’s a shame that the finish is quite so hard. 16

Jancis Robinson: Lemony and interesting on the nose. Off- dry and tight. Very much archetypal “new” Australian Chardonnay, with some real tension, though not exactly bone-dry. Great texture. And good concentration. Persistent. Drink 2012–15. 17

Anthony Rose: Pale lemon in color, this is pleasantly clean, fresh, and aromatic, with an almost aggressive spritz on the front of the tongue but an appealing underlying peachy opulence of fruit and a nice oak-derived nuttiness behind it. A well-crafted, juicily approachable Chardonnay that’s nicely judged overall. 16.5