Andrew Jefford: Pale gold, almost (though not quite) green-shot in color. Fresh, breezy, grapefruity aromas, with plenty of both flesh and pith. Some green apple, too, and a little very discreet cream behind. Bright, tingly-tangy flavors; the same cool-climate freshness as its peers in this subgroup, yet slightly more overt fruit development and a little welcome phenolic squeeze at the end. Another principally gastronomic/pescatorial Chardonnay, though there’s enough ripe-lime fruit development to enable you to sip this one as an apéritif, too. 15

Jancis Robinson: Pale gold. This smells of the old Australian yeast. Acidity not that marked. A little flat but certainly competent and solid. Good dry finish but not as much vitality as some. Good texture but could do with more lift. Drink 2011–13. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale, a subtle hint of butterscotch and nutty oak on the nose; this is attractively richly textured on the palate, a delicate seam of oak nuttiness adding a complexing framework to the baked-apple fruit flavours. It finishes crisp, clean, zingy, and dry, with no hard edges to the fruit quality but very good length and texture overall. 16.5