Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold in color. Very interestingly different aromas: at last, a little funkiness, a little earth, a little humanity, and wider expressive force. Complex and engaging; there’s fruit beneath, but it is qualified by mushroom, stone, underbrush, salted meat... Wine off the leash. On the palate, by contrast, it doesn’t quite live up to the promise of that aromatic profile, being much edgier, slighter, “fresher,” and more acidic than the relaxed and articulate aromatic profile suggested it would be. On the palate, it is so much more abrupt and curtailed than I had hoped. I am puzzled, I admit, by this discrepancy. It was scoring 17 or more aromatically, but the palate simply doesn’t deliver. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Pale straw. Tangy if not exactly subtle nose. Then a rather watery palate. And austere and astringent on the finish. Austerity is not the same as elegance! Just a bit more fruit, please. Drink 2013–15.

Anthony Rose: Pale in color, a little indistinct on the nose, with underlying notes of nutmeg spice and exotic pineappley fruits. A slightly salted-caramel initial attack on the tongue leads into a pleasantly peach-fruit quality always underpinned by a still-salty streak of acidity; it’s a well-crafted wine, with a nice underlying nuttiness and quite taut, fresh, balancing acidity. 16.5