Andrew Jefford: Full yellow-gold. A calm, relaxed, seigneurial aroma—gracious, ample, and unfussy, though very satisfying. Rich, full, and warm, with no sense of obviousness or unripeness. The kind of aroma you want to keep returning to. On the palate, it is a little brighter and more acidically pointed up than I had hoped, but this is still a ripe, open-textured wine with considerable depth and resource of flavor. Fine density and length, and some finishing vinosity. 15

Jancis Robinson: Mid-straw. Open, pungent nose. Crisp, lemony acidity. Very chewy on the finish. Lots to get your teeth into, though the fruit is a little hidden at the moment. Drink 2013–16. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale lemon in color; this is pleasantly fresh and quite peachy on the nose, albeit overtly oaky and similarly on the palate. It’s quite juicy, ripe, and peachy, with some underlying nutty oak notes and nicely balancing acidity, giving this dry white a pleasantly seamless and juicily drinkable character without actually setting the world on fire. 15.5