Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold in color. Pleasant, brightly fruity scents, though without a lot of shaping finesse. Vivid, fresh, acidic palate: taut, without a lot of depth, texture, vinosity, or reverberative force. A bit lemon-juicy, in truth. Is this an early pick? I think the wine needs more ripeness to achieve full articulacy. A short, abrupt finish and a citric aftertaste. Modish but misguided. I couldn’t drink this with any pleasure. No developed vinosity at all. 12

Jancis Robinson: Hint of pink in the straw color. Some leesiness on the nose. And some very firm acidity, too. A very distinctive wine that’s aiming for later development than most. Chewy finish. Zesty and bone-dry. Quite uncompromising, but there is fruit there. The tartest so far. Chablis-style. Drink 2013–17. 17

Anthony Rose: Pale in color with a refreshing, “crafted” aromatic quality showing crafty and crafted lees stirring and nutty oak elements. The fruit is richly concentrated, with the full complexing lees and barrel-fermentation treatment bringing complexity and texture to this very attractive dry, almost salted-caramel-style Chardonnay. It finishes very clean, dry, and nutty, with a background mineral saltiness adding an extra element of mineral dryness and intensity to the fruit. Quality stuff. 17.5