Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Given that this stage of the tasting means that we should still be in cool-climate territory, this wine carries rather a heavy scent—a bumblebee bomber, weighty with pollen and honey fudge. But hey, why not? On the palate, it is soft, rich, juicy if rather formless, cascading with the very ripest end of the lemon spectrum, its acidity a soft, high-summer rain rather than the steel and nerve of the first wines we were shown. Good wine, but not subtle, not textured, and the fruit is a little bit clunky. Walnuts to finish. 13.5

Jancis Robinson: Deep gold. Big, evolved, but if you found this in Meursault, you would not be disappointed. There is (just) sufficient acidity and no excess sweetness. A satisfying mature wine that finishes dry. Much more developed than most. Drink 2009–12. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Quite deep yellow in color, the nose shows a fair degree of oak, with a baked-apple and honeyed element and a slightly medicinal, almost eucalyptus character. The fruit on the palate is nicely textured with a buttery, honeyed quality that’s very individual, and it’s supported by good acidity. I just find that the level of oak slightly interferes with the fruit quality rather than enhancing it. 15