Andrew Jefford: Full yellow-gold. There is something a little Sauvignon-like and oniony about this: I wouldn’t necessarily guess Chardonnay if given this wine blind. Edgy, tight, acidic, without any kind of development or depth of flavor. This seems to be a wine ambushed in adolescence. I wouldn’t want to drink it. 11

Jancis Robinson: Paler than most. Very light nose. Dry, textured finish and just a slight lack of fruit in the middle. Desperately trying to be introvert. Very chewy. Drink 2013–16. 16

Anthony Rose: Pale lemon in color; appley on the nose and palate, with an apparently manufactured spritz, saltiness, and bite to it that slightly detracts from the fruit quality, leaving a slightly dysfunctional feel overall. 15