Andrew Jefford: Deep, dark red and not yet clear, though this is due to unfiltering rather than age. Gorgeously complex Pinot scents: a wonderful weave of poised red fruit, rummaged earth, and the sweeter fullness that the wine creator can bring to this wine via work with lees and oak: as complex a set of aromas as any wine today. I could sniff this with pleasure for 15 minutes. It’s almost pheromonally attractive. The wine can’t quite manage to keep its aromatic magnetism intact on the palate—it’s a little bit bulky, a little bit hefty—yet as you sip and drink, you will realize that that is the place having its say, and in fact there is a sort of heavy-shouldered beauty to that, too. A true statement of this variety in this place and an essential way-mark in any tour of antipodean Pinot. New Zealand. 16

Anthony Rose: Quite evolved, smoky, dry, cola-spicy, and peppery; sweet dark-berry aromas. Very complex and fascinating, richly concentrated loganberry and mulberry fruit, with a powerfully smoky and savory juicy character. Lots going on in this wine, which is intense and powerful, and yet through all the power, the gamey/savory Pinot Noir character manages to shine brightly. New Zealand. 17.5

Joanna Simon: Cloudy garnet-tawny. Mature, sweet, undergrowth nose. Mature, soft, sweet-earth palate, with touches of chocolate and coffee. Still interesting, though past its best. Australia? 12