Andrew Jefford: Light, limpid, and clear in color: glowing garnet-red. Almost a cool-climate Pinot caricature in aromatic terms: that high-toned, near-kerosene red fruit comes juddering out of the glass. There’s oak sweetness behind and a twist of licorice spice—all of which, to be fair, is not unattractive... but it’s not quite classical either, and the Pinot aspirational space is one in which classicism counts for a lot. The palate, by contrast, is ferociously acidic, raw, leafy, and keroseney: Much needs to be rethought here. I couldn’t drink this with any pleasure. There is no freshness, no sweet poise, no grace, no charm—just that grassy acidic residuum. New Zealand? 11.5

Anthony Rose: Medium ruby shading to garnet; all sorts of fascinatingly evolved spicy beef stock and vegetal bouillon aromas going on here, like a Burgundy with five or six years age on it. Distinctively evolved on the palate, too, and yet with some bright, sweet red-berry spiciness that devolves toward the gamey and vegetal quite quickly and finishes on the dry side. Distinctively Pinot, with some sweetness and savory fruit characters—a wine that desperately needs the likes of pheasant or partridge to really bring out that spicy side. (I think they might hate this in America!) Australia. 17

Joanna Simon: Maturing garnet. Baked fruit and potpourri nose. Aging, baked-fruit palate, with a touch of cocoa. Silky texture and still has acidity, but showing age, without any real complexity. Already past its best. Australia? 11.5