Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Soft and fruity red-fruit-and-toast nose; coffee and yeasty notes. Signs of moderate deliberate oxidation. Medium-bodied; structured palate, with plenty of ripe fruit. Good depth of flavor and a nicely harmonious overall balance. 16.5

Michael Edwards: Gold tints but still youthful: fine nose of aging Champagne, fresh, mineral, mature but dancing; fine confirming golden fruitiness and a mineral elegance. Tastes like an excellent ’98? 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Exquisitely rich, oak-fermented Champagne. Absolutely true brut. A baby. Keep forever! 19