Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Overt nose, with some notes of oxidation. Bruised apple, dust, fudge, and apple juice. Full and round on the straightforward, somewhat austere palate. Fresh and vibrant but lacks finesse and scope. 16

Michael Edwards: Lemon-yellow, gold lights. Tastes more Chardonnay-led but in a very well-balanced golden but fresh style. 17

Tom Stevenson: Rich, clean, complex. Really impressive mid-term complexity. Will continue to improve. 18.5