Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold color. Soft, evolving, round, and nuanced nose of sweet toffee, coffee, and brioche. Rich and overt on the palate, with a fine mousse and velvety texture. Chewy and concentrated. Full and expressive, showing development but no signs of tiring. Muscular, approachable, and impressive. Drinks from now to 2025. 18

Michael Edwards: This does have a golden, sunny maturity about it. Ripe and generous, but it’s not especially complex. 16

Tom Stevenson: A good Champagne, but not a great one. No discernible faults—not aging too rapidly, not oxidative—but still does not leap out. 14.5