Tim Atkin: Dark, inky, and rich. Powerful, slightly Porty nose, with some earthy, root-vegetable notes. Yet this has concentration and considerable complexity, with notes of figs and dried plums and tobacco spice. Needs robust food 17

Nicolas Belfrage: Very deep, totally opaque. Woodsmoke and blackberry on nose. Full, creamy texture, opulent and powerful, with firm acidity and muscular tannin but fruit to stand up to these—an impressive wine. But is it drinkable? Probably needs five more years, but it could blossom into something very special 17

Bruno Besa: Black core to tawny rim. Open, mature nose of prune, yet slightly oxidized and rustic full body, with excessive tannins and bitter finish 14