Tim Atkin: Rich, youthful purple. Ripe, concentrated, aromatic nose. A touch of VA, but it works in the context of the wine. Harmonious, sweet fruit; subtle oak, very well balanced; old-fashioned style, but none the worse for that 16.5

Nicolas Belfrage: Back to the big, deep, quasi-opaque style. Plenty of black cherry and plum on nose; a big, rich, almost soupy mouthful. A touch of chocolate or coffee—almost a drinker as opposed to a thinker 14.5

Bruno Besa: Black saturated core to thin purple rim. Broad, mature, layered clean nose, with black fruits and hints of smoke. Mint-filled body, yet very balanced palate, with sweet black-cherry fruit. Slightly short on the finish. A very well-made wine, yet a touch too modern 16.5