Tim Atkin: Developed, pale garnet. Pinot time again. Nice, soft, grainy, tobacco-pouch aromatics, couched in a traditional style. Fruit just fading a little, but there’s some nice sweetness here. Drink now, but enjoy 16

Nicolas Belfrage: Near opaque. Tar and red-berry fruits on nose. Ripe fruit, but some plastic hints in the mouth; bitter twist at the back; slightly soupy. Doesn’t quite hang together 12

Bruno Besa: Black core to garnet/tawny rim. Open slightly decadent nose of sandalwood and cigar box. Fairly balanced palate, yet a touch short and simple on the finish 18.5