Tim Atkin: Dense ruby/purple. Incense and bonfires on the nose, with some lighter (rocket?) fuel. Pretty hefty alcohol here. Tannins drying out the fruit a little, but some good, sweet, figgy fruit underneath. Less alcoholic would be better 15

Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth. Balsamic and plummy on nose. Not quite together in mouth; acid detached from fruit. Not bad, but lacks elegance and togetherness of others 14

Bruno Besa: Deep black core. Mature, complex nose of black fruits, cedarwood, smoked meat, and Mediterranean herbs. Full body, with big tannins, well supported by the sweet mature fruit. A very good wine—maybe a bit over the top 16.5