Nicolas Belfrage: Correct mid-depth color. Clean but undeveloped nose. Good mouthful of floral fruitiness, with good but not sharp acidity and sufficient tannin to hold it for a few years. And yet the final impression is “could do better.” It’s all there, but for the moment it ain’t firing on all cylinders. Fair enough for a 2006. Drink from 2016; think this one is due to come out of its shell - 16

Stephen Brook: Very deep plum-red. Vibrant if tarry nose; gamey but doesn’t lack freshness and lift. Sleek attack, concentrated, no rough edges. The underlying tannins are quite powerful, so the silkiness and juiciness are deceptive. This has muscle, as well as fruit. Very persistent and well balanced - 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Very dark blackish ruby. Pretty alluring bonfire nose. Smells warm and round. Tastes all enveloping. No pain! But no faults such as flashy sweetness or oakiness or excess alcohol. Very well done. Even if readier than most. Such length and completeness. Very clean and admirable. Drink 2013–20 - 18