Nicolas Belfrage: On the light side, but nothing wrong with that. Decidedly orange on rim. Pungent floral/vegetal nose: some garlic, some truffle, some rose. Multidimensional. Terrific balance; moves through the mouth with poetic precision; ethereal but intense finish, very sweet and long and fine. The real thing. Drink now (yes, it’s happening now) for 20 years - 18

Stephen Brook: Fairly deep red. Light sour cherry nose. Medium-bodied, supple, moderately concentrated, and seemingly onedimensional. The texture is silky, the fruit appealing, but it lacks some drive and complexity. Soft and lacking in flair and vivacity. Not much persistence - 14

Jancis Robinson: Almost yellow at the rim, it’s so evolved! Rather alluring and could only be Barolo. Lightweight but round and with some delicacy. Just a hint of syrupiness, but some roses. Could do with a tad more freshness. Just a little heat. Very evolved. Drink 2011–16 - 16