Tim Atkin: Mid-ruby, some development at the rim. Aromatic, red-fruit, cracked-pepper nose, with some savory, leafy undertones. A little feral, but it’s good feral. Sweet oak a little too intrusive here, but the flavors are very varietal in a spicy, cooler-climate style 16

Stephen Brook: Very deep plum red. Super-ripe plumand- berry nose, with discreet oak giving a touch of vanilla. Medium-bodied, sleek in texture, moderately concentrated, and has some charm. But there’s not a great deal of weight or complexity. Simple but charming, but not a wine for the cellar. Fairly short 15

Alex Hunt: This wine has a convincingly Rhône-ish aroma spectrum of currants, undergrowth, and bacon fat, backed up by new oak. The palate is fuller and rounder than expected, yet with a certain hardness, suggesting relatively high residual CO2. The elements are there; they just need time to coalesce 15