Tim Atkin: Deep color, dense, and inky purple. Cork taint or just egregious amounts of oak? Chewy and firm on the palate, with the tannins drying out the fruit 10

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Dense chocolaty nose, meaty, thick, oaky. Plump, fleshy, rounded; quite concentrated and tannic; a bit austere and blunt. There’s enough sweetness of fruit to give some charm, but overall it’s dogged and effortful, with a hint of bitterness on the finish, too 14

Alex Hunt: Quite marked by coconut/vanilla oak, with herbs underneath. A little awkward—the fruit is a shade underripe for the intended style, giving a superficial-feeling result 13