Andrew Jefford: Another ebony wine, with green-brown glints at the edge. Admirable aromas, in that even after all this time in a very hot place, there is still fresh fruit there, too, at the core of the glass, surrounded by Baroque layer on layer of crystallized orange peel and dark chocolate, raisin and peach, incense and spice. Weighty, full, and thunderous on the palate. Yet, as with the aromas, this wine is wonderfully redeemed by grape and crystallized orange peel. There is a little acidity, lots of chasing chocolatey bitterness, and some salt-packing, too. All of those aromatic and flavory details make this wine more drinkable than either [Valdespino Moscatel Viejísimo Toneles] or [Morris Rutherglen Grand Liqueur Tokay Cellar Reserve] were in my book, though it is still immensely sweet. Magnificent and unique: There truly aren’t many experiences like this in the wine world. Perfume makes this wine what it is and drags it from the food back to wine 17.5

Richard Mayson: Deep, dark mahogany, thin olive-green rim; aroma of treacle and molasses; just slightly burned around the edges, with a savory hint; intensely sweet and concentrated; gorgeous texture, the essence of something, but I can’t quite decide what; delicious, but cloys on the finish. A onemouthful wine. Love it, but I don’t want any more, so how to mark it…? 15.5 Jancis Robinson: Very dark, blackish-orange. Distinctive and intriguing. More subtle than some. It is syrup of figs but has real complexity and refreshment. Lovely breath of fresh air on the finish. Layers and no excess of tannin— just a little grip to keep it attractive. Great balance. Drink 2000–30 18.5