Andrew Jefford: Deep walnut; almost a light ebony. A rich, grapey lift to this, which time and warmth have rendered malty extract-like. Oddly enough, there is also something almost marine, iodiney. It comes out of the glass with the force of a steamroller. Superlush, super-sweet, super-deep, though time has engraved complexities from wood and warmth into the wine, and every single one of the bitter notes is very welcome. Very figgy fruit. Monumental, though so sweet that I would find it hard to finish a glass 15.5

Richard Mayson: Deep mahogany, thin olive-green rim; intense Liqueur Muscat character, rich and malty; beautifully rich and intense; full marks for texture and concentration, which give this intensely sweet and cloying wine its depth and focus. Delicate freshness keeps this wine moreish and alive on the finish. Absolutely delicious in small quantities 18.5: Jancis Robinson: Very thick and dark. Blackish tawny. Raisiny, not fresh fruit. Very sticky indeed. But some grip. If I were poured this in Australia, I would probably love it, but the low acid stands out after tasting [Valdespino Moscatel Viejísimo Toneles]. Sticky indeed! With a bit of chew on the end as opposed to mellow fruitfulness. Drink 2000–15 16.5