Andrew Jefford: Dark, sheeny black red. Warm and slabby, clayey, faintly burned; a bacon hock above the fireplace, mineral; intriguing. Fresh, light, graceful, richly fruited, smooth, and soft, almost despite its ample tannic presence. Balanced, with impressive aromatic fruit architecture. Deft and unusual 15

Richard Mayson: Deep, opaque ruby; thin crimson rim; youthful, dense berry-fruit character, ripe but closing in on itself; soft, sweet, and fleshy initially, with powerful ripe tannins rising in the mouth, leaving a peacock’s tail of a finish, still raw but with a great future ahead. Young VP; purity of fruit suggests 2007? 16.5 Jancis Robinson: Dark crimson. Rich, glowing licorice nose. Very mellow, attractive wine with no rough edges. The claret of this collection in that it is so well balanced! Long and burnished. Still lots of life in it, even if it is drinkable now. Pungent finish. Drink 2010–30 18. :