Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Meaty, beefy, yeasty; perhaps a little bit reductive; a slight scent of hot Bakelite; lacking fruit purity and lift. Lush and rich on the palate but slightly featureless and flat, without a lot of liveliness of fruit. The tannins are gratifying, though 13

Richard Mayson: Deep, opaque ruby; thin crimson rim; big, ripe, voluptuous plum and blackberryfruit character, with loads more to give. Rich and fleshy initially; good depth and breadth here, with firm, ripe tannic grip rising in the mouth, leading to a peacock’s tail of a finish. Very promising 17.5 Jancis Robinson: Very dark crimson. Interesting cumin nose. Very fresh; lots of acidity. Not as rich as some other similar wines—just a little skinny, with very marked tannin. Earnest though. Drink 2015–25 17