Stephen Brook: Splendid nose, with real power and weight. Very complex aromas of lime, apricot, mango, and other tropical fruits. It seems quite evolved for a young Hermitage, but one can hardly complain about aromatic complexity. Broad and sumptuous on the palate, with an immense creaminess and depth of flavor. Despite the sheer weight of fruit, there’s also a strong minerality that contributes a slight but bracing bitterness to the finish but is not unpleasant. Though accessible now, this clearly has a long way to go. With food, it could overpower a fish course but could work with some stern aged cheeses such as Cantal or Cheddar. But it’s really a meal in itself. 18.5

Alison Buchanan: Rich golden/pale amber, this offers a rather enticing nose—big, certainly, but nuanced. The color alone is super-alluring, and the nose takes up the gauntlet with rich, leesy notes, warm pastry, stone fruit, and cream, honey, and spice, all punctuated by nutty minerals. The palate takes up the baton with a silken marriage of the aromatics presented by the nose, though the balance is a little adrift due to the oak and alcohol. Rhônephiles might indulge themselves in imagining a long future for this wine—but I can imagine many sending the wine back as oxidized in a restaurant setting. The balance is just not 100 percent—for the long term 16

Anthony Rose: A youthful yellow-gold in color, this displays floral and dried-fruit aromas, while the plate is richly fruited and finely balanced between dried stone-fruit concentration and nice freshness for a five-year-old wine. It’s intense, distinctly powerful, and rich, but all the elements are nicely integrated into a seamless whole. Its weight and flavors would suit white meats such as chicken or veal. 17.5