Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red in color. Aromatically forthcoming, though in a minor key for exuberant Châteauneuf—more olive grove than fruit orchard. Harmonious and composed, and intriguing in its dark sobriety. The palate is built along the lines suggested by the aromatic profile. Does this come from a cooler, fresher place in the appellation, or from clayier, unsandy soils? Whatever the truth, the wine is very tight-knit, very precise, almost craggy when set against the appellation’s more flamboyant examples. It’s concentrated, too, with fresher acidity than many; the tannins are drily poised. Above all, it’s those dark black-olive and black-sloe flavors that set the tone: a cloak-and-moonlight Châteauneuf. Don’t miss this if you want to gauge the full spectrum of the place. 17

Simon Larkin : Distinct aromatics of a savory nature emerge from the glass: scented sweet fruit with beefy, almost leathery notes. On the palate, the fruit shows ripe yet cool—a less heady style, with a vibrant acidity and some evident grip. The fruit does capture a slightly more medicinal, licorice-laden quality than the first wines in this flight. A less headstrong example, with modest complexity but a pleasing sense of balance. 12.5

John Livingstone-Learmonth: Quite dark red, not the brightest robe; smoky, gamey, assertive ball of aroma, still raw, deeply mulled berries in the air, a note of reduction; is rather seared. Widespread debut here—holds gourmand, near-luscious red-plum fruits, with a minted stoke-up, more tannic charge near the end. Captures 2010 accurately: the gras and the freedom. Traditional-style Châteauneuf; some would say it could be more “pristine.” Tannins need leaving, have an edge of dryness. This will provide interest and variety as it ages. From 2015 to 2024/25. 15.5