Stephen Brook: Subdued nose, quite honeyed, stewed apricots. Bold and fleshy, with remarkable weight of fruit, this miraculously avoids heaviness but does show some heat on the aftertaste. A hint of sweetness intensifies the wine but doesn’t quite disguise the alcohol. It is war between the rich weight of fruit and the imperfect balance of the wine, and how you rate it depends on how forgiving you are of evident alcohol. I’m not, and I would find it hard to drink more than half a glass of this but regret having to penalize a fatiguing but otherwise admirable wine 16

Alison Buchanan: Rich yellow-gold, this has an assertive, aged Grüner nose, oxidative in style but still fresh, poised, and confident. Compote of orchard and stone fruit dominates the palate, underscored by minerals. This has definition of grape variety, vintage, and place and is rather brave, since this is a style that is often misunderstood. Very aromatic and decisive, it would work well with river fish, white meat, and Asian spice. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow-gold. Five years of age hasn’t withered her but brought distinctive secondary aromas of caraway, celery, and spice; the palate is rich, almost sweet, with classic opulent fruit and spice backed by nice freshness and minerality. An intense and powerful wine with lots of character 17