Stephen Brook: Rich appley nose but without much definition. The palate is medium-bodied and moderately rich, but with good underlying acidity to give it zest. Indeed, the acidity dominates the mid-palate and gives a certain vibrancy and persistence. The fruit itself doesn’t have much personality but the wine’s structure does, giving it energy and drive. The finish is tangy and long, and there’s a very slight sweetness, which is fine in itself since it’s balanced by the acidity but could make this problematic with food. 16.5

Alison Buchanan: Golden straw in color, this is relatively subdued still on the nose: cold-ferment confected, though alcohol shows through allied to some tropical notes, fruit cocktail, and barbecued bananas. The aromatics are echoed, generously, on the palate, which is expansive, hedonistic, ripe, and enormously ebullient. Toasted notes, mocha and vanilla cream, and warm pastry all play a role. There is acidity there and even some minerality but masked by fruit and alcohol. There is ultimately balance, but balanced enormity— possibly rather tiring after one glass. 15.5

Anthony Rose: Pale in color; there’s nice, fresh, lightly toasty oak and popcorn notes on the nose. The fruit is attractively concentrated and opulent, with an attractive peachiness backed by a buttery popcorn-like sweetness and a light balancing touch of spicy oak, yet it finishes dry and fresh. Overall, a powerful dry white with lots going for it. 16.5