Stephen Brook: Heady honeysuckle-and-talc nose, but the palate is less intriguing, being rather flat and soft. There’s too much alcohol here, giving an immediate bitterness, and the lack of acidity is flagrant. Overall, this is a clumsy and flat-footed style: a hot-climate Viognier that’s just too overpowering 12

Alison Buchanan: Golden in color, this combines ripe stone-fruit compote, quince, and barbecued banana with more straitlaced minerals. The palate combines perfumed aromatics and bountiful ripe fruit with an attractive level of acidity and minerality. Rich and silkytextured, this might be better quaffed with nibbles, though it would be interesting to try with lightly spiced dishes. Very perfumed, if quite soapy on the finish. 15.5

Anthony Rose: This is quite intense and youthful on the nose, with apricot-skin and rose-petal and honeysuckle floral undertones, backed up on the palate by a peachy opulence of fruit flavor behind which is a powerful alcoholic kick resembling Condrieu on steroids. Given that it does have varietal typicity, it seems a shame that, to reach the desired level of phenolic ripeness, it had to go quite so high in alcohol 16