Stephen Brook: Dumb nose. Supple but slack, with a light sweetness and an overall lack of grip. Easygoing but has little depth or complexity. Surprisingly bland and a bit tired 13

Alison Buchanan: Restrained, brooding, serious stone fruit—no frivolity. The palate is rich and creamy, dense and slightly unforgiving. Sweet to a fault, it lacks an electrical boost of minerals or acidity to give a sense of purpose, and there’s a slightly grubby backdrop to boot. Not a stylistic winner 13

Anthony Rose: Is this 2004? It looks almost too pale. It’s floral, with a confected sweetness that does it few favors. This is ordinary, banal, sweetish Alsace Gewurz 13