Stephen Brook: Dumb nose, a bit oily, and there seems to be a good deal of oak covering the fruit. The palate is rich, broad, and powerful, with good weight of fruit and ample density. It’s somewhat overbearing and doesn’t have the drive and freshness needed to balance the ponderous structure. Quite evolved for such a young wine. Medium length 14

Alison Buchanan: Golden straw in color; this has a very confected nose, high-toned and alcoholic, with super-ripe, almost blown fruit. The palate reflects the sweetness suggested on the nose, a little like liquid fruit salad made with slightly fermenting fruit. 7

Anthony Rose: Pale in color, this has a distinctive nose combining appley aromas with barrelfermented solids characters that bring an almost Burgundian complexity to it. It’s attractively rich on the palate, showing leesy complexity, concentrated apple fruitiness, and, despite the evident power, nice balancing freshness; a really interesting blend that combines fruit and cellar-crafting in equal measure 17