Nicolas Belfrage: (cc: water-pale = 1; deep gold = 9) cc6. Tremendous pungency of aroma wafting from the glass: baked fruits and spices. Deeply concentrated and complex, with saltiness and sweetness conflicting and resolving. This is an amazing wine that should not in any way be measured against the dryer versions, which may be less intense but are far more drinkable. When would you drink this? With Christmas pudding, perhaps- 17

Marcel Orford-Williams: Green-gold. This has some age and is from a vintage with good acidity, maybe 2002. Sweet but with plenty of grip. Very fine and very long, too. Tarte tatin on the finish, bitter caramel, and really quite lovely- 19

Joanna Simon: Deep golden, yet slightly green. Very ripe, honeyed, butterscotch nose. Very concentrated, almost Marmitey in its concentration, with straw and honey on the palate. Rich, intense, and very sweet, with matching acidity but a hint of maderization. A showpiece more than a wine for drinking? - 15.5