Andrew Jefford: Silver shot with old gold, though pale. Very different aromas from its peers: sweeter, more candied... angelica, almost green banana; plus the hint of toffee that some styles of oxidation can bring. Concentrated and elemental on the palate, with acidity and minerality in plenty; what it lacks is some central-palate width. The minerality works so well, though, that it doesn’t bother me much. I get the feeling that this comes from very good vineyards. It holds well in the glass, and the aromatic profile seems to grow (paradoxically) fresher with air: green-apple sherbet after 10 minutes 15

Andreas Larsson: Rather sweet nose, with tutti-frutti aromas; slightly artificial, with no depth to talk about. The palate is on the lighter side, with young fruit, green apple, and some herbal notes. A hint of bitterness on the finish; rather simple 10

Stephan Reinhardt: Pale color. Very ripe fruit flavors (overripe pears), more southern Italy (okay: France) than western France. Full and aromatic on the palate, fat, crisp acidity (a little bit aggressive, though), whereas the tannins are a little bit rustic and the finish is slightly drying out. Will this wine ever be enjoyable to drink? Still unbalanced 12.5