Michael Edwards: A fine, vital crystalline color; snowy mousse. Brisk, invigorating nose but suggesting an elegant acidity. Palate confirms this classic “Champagne” character of 2008, reminiscent of 1988 but with more ripeness. Still very young but with considerable potential and latent class. A fine grower’s wine? An exciting future 17

Simon Field: Nose of bruised apple, slate, and hints of oily oak; then a rich oaky palate, sweet, fulsome and with peach and white chocolate building on the solid foundations. Energetic and finely textured, with a deft, intelligent denouement 17

Tom Stevenson: Simplistic, peppery fruit. Clean. Not exciting 11