Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Sweet maraschino cherry nose—a bit too glossy. Vanilla and cherry-pie aromas lurking here, too. Soft attack, sleek and rounded, but there’s a lack of energy and drive. There’s some intensity of fruit and a refined oakiness, but as a package, the wine is slightly confected. A discreet style, but it lacks some force. Moderate length 14

Alex Hunt: For me, this is just the wrong side of acceptable in terms of volatile acidity. Rather than lifting the fruit, it gives a distinct balsamic note. In the mouth, the fruit is Porty and there’s a fair bit of oak (and therefore tannin), yet the sprinkling of vinegar remains as a rather unwelcome seasoning 11

Anthony Rose: Deep color, with an obvious sweet attack on the nose: prune, plum, and raisin. This is attractively spicy and fruity in blackberry-sweet mold, with nice, balancing textured tannins and good juicy acidity allied to a level of concentration that brings a pleasingly dry chunkiness of structure and good firm backbone. Very much a food wine 16