Andrew Jefford: Full yellow-gold; evanescent mousse. Soft, languid, walnutty scents. Intense, long, vivid palate combining the walnutty fullness of the aromatic profile with relatively sharp-elbowed acidity; the two don’t quite come together with classic greatvintage felicity, but this is still a Champagne in good fettle. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Toffee-mellowed fruit. Typical for aging of this vintage now. 15.5