Essi Avellan: Deep lemon. Pure, floral, delicately creamy, leesy nose. Lively, lemony palate with good weight and freshness. Balanced dosage but still holding back. Pleasurable, vivacious, and carefully crafted, with potential. Very elegant. 17.5

Simon Field: Very energetic mousse and attractive spicy nose. The oak is more dominant on the palate, veiling the harmonies with a white-pepper scherzo and a lack of clear definition. This may well change. 16

Tom Stevenson: Absolutely beautifully balanced, wonderfully complete 2004 with a stunning, silky mousse. Where gorgeous meets complex and neither dominates. 19.5