Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Deep maturing appley nose, disappointingly singular. Rich, wide palate that starts sweet but finishes very dry. Aged fruit character but still very crisp palate: a bit of a contradiction. Fully alive but aromatics are quickly developing. Gains an oxidative character quickly in the glass. 16

Simon Field: Fine, civilized color and a pleasingly youthful nose of wet pavements and early harvest time. The palate juxtaposes ancient and modern pleasingly, the acidity still holding sway over the weight of fruit, which will probably win over in the end. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale lemon color, dosage peeping through on the nose and rather syrupy on the palate. Might pull together, but a somewhat unhappy marriage at this juncture. 15 (29 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; >5g/l / NA)