Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep. A waxy note to the fruit, with a corresponding bitter twist on the finish. The fruit in the mouth is sweet and incisive but not attractive drinking now, needing another 4 or 5 years. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Intense, complex, nutty nose, with minerals, toasted hazelnuts, orangepeel, cedarwood, and fresh rosemary. Full body, with huge yet refined tannins, complex, mineral, and long. Super Barolo to drink over the next 30 years. 19

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Vivid, fresh, warm, and allusive: bubbling fruits, lifting from the glass. There’s a faint citrus-grove exoticism here that is lovely and reminds me of southern French Syrah. Supremely attractive scents, though not the most classical. Lovely, lip-trembling, gourmet wine on the palate, too: plush, sweet, sexy, pert, unctuous. Hedonistically irresistible—and then, being Barolo, down comes the portcullis of tannin to give the wine some seriousness and grandeur. But not too much, in this case; this is arms-wideopen, don’t-stress-too-much Barolo but still made with top-quality, well-handled fruit, so I’m very confident it will see out a decade with success. I can’t really see how you could do the modern style more successfully than this, though I feel this is probably not from the very finest vineyards of the whole region. 16.5