Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Subdued, stylish nose with pastry complexity and sweet, fresh red fruitiness. Oxidative; the character comes through more on the palate, which is lower on fruit than the nose. Disappointingly dull finish. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold with a fine seething mousse. Tiny hint of reduction, but basically this is a sweeter, creamy style with recessive fruit. On the palate, the wine is broad, full, well rounded, but with plenty of mineral ballast to keep the lemony foreground on an even keel. Attractive, if just a little simple. Good vineyard, all the same. 15

Tom Stevenson: Smooth and intense, with a velvety-smooth mousse underneath. Long. Clean. Fresh. 18