Michael Edwards: This has real virtue: energetic, mineral, lovely green fruits, greengage, your favorite orchard. Young but the class is evident. 17

Andrew Jefford: Pale to mid-gold; a slightly desultory mousse. Slightly coarse Bakelite and washed-linen aromas, though I’m carping; in a noisy wine bar, it would just smell right. On the palate, it’s a sound if not electrifying blanc de blancs, with plenty of light, vanilla-laden fruit; decent depth and length; and some vinosity. All fine, in other words, until you take the magnifying glass to it. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: Rich, energetic, delicious and classy, with a silky-soft mousse. 18.5