Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Round, fruit-forward red-berry nose, with flowery perfume. Rather simple, but clean and bright. Zesty and energetic palate. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold. Gentle, soft, uneventful aromas of vaguely sweet style. Simple, fresh, lively, sherbetty Champagne. Tastes concentrated, but most of this concentration is attributable to the rather biting acid profile. 12.5

Tom Stevenson: First bottle corked; second clean. Good but not special. Absolutely fine-drinking Champagne, but not offering anything sitespecific. 15.5