Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Mild, autumnal, appley nose. Bright fruit, but straightforward in character. Strong palate with the same simple fruit profile, all about bruised red apples. Cruelly dry finish; dries out the palate. No charm here. 12.5

Andrew Jefford: Light to medium gold, with a steady, fine mousse. Softly earthy, planty aromas: unusual, attractive, and off the well-trodden big-brand path. Deep, dry, searching, stony; resonantly austere, thanks to super-restrained fruit. More plant sap and earth in the finish. This is the sort of thing that a single-vineyard approach ought to bring, and it expands the Champagne horizons. You can’t say it’s a great Champagne, but it is unquestionably a successful Champagne de terroir, and I’d enjoy a thoughtful glass or two. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Aldehydic-oxidative aromas dominate on first approach, slightly VA-lifted pineapple fruit on the palate, supported by a refreshing mousse of very fine bubbles. Drink; do not keep. 15