Andrew Jefford: Saturatedly deep black-red. Very ripe, mushroomy, veal jus, and consommé in style, but attractive. And in truth, I’d much rather have that than all the leafy stuff. On the palate, it is sweet, lush, warm, and open. The fruit is a little bit raisiny and dry, and although the vineyard lies near to Cheval Blanc, we are a long way adrift of the chiffon-like sexy freshness and finesse of that grand wine, but this is still a hugely enjoyable glassful in which you can forget all about greenness and leaves. Nice tannins, too. A little less ripeness might deliver a little more class, but I’m carping... This is very serious stuff for the sensual elite. 2018–23. 92