Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Pencil shavings and warm oak contrasting with cool, lifted fruits dominate the classy aromas. On the palate, this is generous and rich, long and chunky, but perhaps this relatively high-altitude fruit (acidity is certainly an element) isn’t quite ripe enough to support the lavish oak treatment, lees, and so on. Undoubtedly impressive, though, and with fine aromatic complexity. 2018–28. 92