Nicolas Belfrage: Unusually deep in color. Atypical nose; fine enough but not Nebbiolo. Similar on the palate, deep and rich, oak not obvious but there—and whatever else. I suppose they will say this is the “new clone.” Marked down not for lack of quality in absolute terms but for lack of type. 14

Simon Larkin: One of the deeper wines tasted. The nose reveals forest fruit with vanillin nuances. The palate is bold and dense, with plenty of fruit, but is more akin to the Barolo stereotype, being more masculine and grippy in style. A more susbtantial style of Barbaresco, with plenty of fruit and structure; more extracted, but it does work. With complex undergrowth and tea-chest nuances, there is plenty of interest here. The only issue is a little warmth on the back palate; it does not share the cool ripeness of the best of this tasting but is still very fine. 18

Franco Ziliani: Dark, super-concentrated, and not Nebbiolo in color. The nose lacks elegance, with predominant oaky and toasty notes. Very ample and ripe on the palate, but the oaky tannins still predominate, with an astringent, bitter, dull finish. The wrong modern interpretation of Barbaresco. 10