Nicolas Belfrage: Relatively deep, attractive, youthful ruby. Plenty of structure on the palate, but no great charm: a teeth-grinder. May improve with time, but I wouldn’t count on it. 12

Simon Larkin: Great depth of color, and very scented, with bold, ripe cherry aromas. The palate is finely proportioned, with sour cherry fruit, notes of undergrowth and tea-chest. The balance here impresses, as do the

Simon Larkin eek tannins. There is marked acidity, but it is nonetheless well knit to the wine. This has fine length and persistence, with a pure, lingering fruit. 16.5

Franco Ziliani: The dark side of Barbaresco, or lost in the middle of a forest. Ruby/purple, inky, concentrated color (the “new clones” of Nebbiolo, of course!). The nose is inky, oaky, toasty—very far removed from Nebbiolo and Barbaresco. The palate lacks energy and expression, with bitter tannins and an astringent finish. 10