Tim Atkin: Mid-ruby/violet. Plums-and-violets nose. Firm tannins. A little angular and foursquare. Dry, tannic finish. Quite serious, but lacks fruit sweetness. Maybe it just needs another 2–5 years in bottle. 14

Alex Hunt: Rather dirty, vegetal aroma, and the palate, though it has some body, is ungenerous with fruit. A stalky flavor dominates. 9

Anthony Rose: Good, vivid color. Attractively aromatic, pleasantly approachable, fresh mulberry- and cherry-fruit flavors, with nicely rounded oak. Attractively juicy and very drinkable, albeit a tad dry and chewy on the finish. Satisfying, without setting the world alight. 15